Welting.



J. A. BRUGAN.

wmme.

APPLICATION FILED AUG-257 lBli. 1,278,844. PatentedSe m 1?, 1918.

yawn (/Q k 10 away:

zmzwa leather.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

-J'AMES A. BROGAN, or LAWRE CE, MAseAcHUsE'r'rs, nssmnon, BY mnsivn AssIQN} MENTS, TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY conronurrou, or rs'rnnson, NEW JERSEY;

A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

WELTI'Nu \Velting used in the manufacture of Go0dyear welt shoes is generally prepared by cutting with ir'grooving knife a half-round strip of leather from the flesh side of a plain strip of welting leather to form the groove, and by ski'ving off the inner edge of the strip withjt gskiving knife to form the bevel. The beveli's" shaped to fit closely in the angle formed at the junction of the shoe upper \viththe insole, and the groove receives. the

seainend allows the weltiug to be readily:

bent into shape to conform to the angle of the upper and outsole. The material re moved at the bevel and. gmove of the welt weakens it. because the fiber of the inner laycrs o1. leather is softer and coarser grained than the outer layers or grain fiber'of the The inseam for uniting the W911) ing to the shoefuppcr and insole passes through the bevel and lies in the groove, and it often happens that during the formation of the inseam, the stitches will be pulled entirely throu h welting having a cut groove and bevel. Ioreover, it oftn' happens that in sewing the welting to the lasted shoe, the inseam will be sewed so near to the inner edge of the welting that the skived surface is partially visible in the crease between the upper and the welting. \Vhere blackened welting is used, the appearance of the lighter colored skived leather is particularlynoticeable and, necessizatcs a speeiah treat nent of the crease when the shoe is enough back from the inner edge so that the sklved bevel Is not noticeable, a considerable I Specification of Letters Patent. Patented sptrl'i', 1918. Application filed August 26, 1915. Serial No. 47,518.

portion of the welting will be wasted during t e i ea trin'iming operation.

The objects of the present invention are to provide an improved welting which is well suited for the manufacture of Welt mentioned disadvantages.

in accordance wit these objects, one feature of the invention contemplates the pro vision of a weltinp; having an inseam receiving edge of a portion oflset from the body of the wclting to'form a rib that will conform closely and accurately to the shape of the shoe upper at its junction with the insole. (In the preferred form of the invention, the inseam receiving edge of. the welting consists of a groove on the under face of the welting,-a ibevel on the upper face of the welting, and a rib which forms a. continuation of the bevel, the material beshoes and which will overcome the above tween the groove, and the bevel andrib bemg compressed to" form arigid, strong,

seam-receiving area. T 0 insure an economical use of welting, no material is removed from the grain side or upper face of the welting, and both the rib and the bevel are covered with the grain fiber of the leather,

In addition to the featuresabove referred to, the present invention also consists in a welting having certain novelfeetures hereinaftcr described and claimed, the advan tages of whieh' will be obvious to those skilled in the art from the following description. i

In the drawings Figure l aperspective view of a. welting embodying the preferred form of :the invention, showing the upper face andofi'sct rib, and Fig; 2 tive view of the welting showing the under face and the groove.

In the illustrated embodiment of the invention, the welting consists of a strip of leather. welting material havin a seam-receiving edge 10 and a body 12. Ihis welting is made from a strip 01 leather havin a, substantially rectangular crosssection. he

strip is usually tempered before treatment reparing machine,

a V-shaped strip grooving knife and fed into 'a welt- Lpon entering the machine, of leather is removed by a is a perspecuhmg the hmul' (who f tho \vohing on the I "u tivly lithe waiting wili be removed on the Hush sh'lv H tn mark ihc hm'lliion of the, inseam h-umning operation. Through this grnove H5. Afzvr leaving the grourmg mrrnnfl, also a narrowe'rwidth ofwvnltmg :lidiill mm )rvssing and sl i iii th rm-vivlng m g'v. h: form 1110,}; for ementl he in' close ti") 125 p m'uhulai txurig strigi in .he manufacture of shQcs oynprisihg ing a seam-receiving edge, a. rib on its upbeveled to form a seam-receiving area, and

per face, and its under fave roughened t0 :1 rib on its upper face at the junction of tha fnl'm :1 cenmnting surf-ace. offset portion with the body of the W011, W 6. As an article of nrmmfacture, u strip said bevel and. rib beil'lg covurefi with the of walking for use in the manufacture of grain fiber of the leather.

shoes comprising, a strip of leather Welting I mum-in! lmving its inner edge offset, and JAMES A. BRUGAN, 

